I’m just getting over jet lag coming in from Scotland and Ireland, but, very happy with memories from two wonderful countries to visit and also enjoy gluten free eating. My trip was through CIE Tours which is Ireland based. For the past two years Aer Lingus has been providing a non-stop plane ride from Cleveland to Dublin. It was great to take advantage of that.
I’ll start with the food which is most concerning when we celiacs travel. I had no problems finding gluten free in both Scotland and Ireland. This was much more so in Ireland where even the smallest restaurant has allergens listed on the menu and after each selection. I think this is standard practice in Ireland as the listings all looked the same. I tried several large and small venues in Ireland. The smallest (as well as every other place I went to) with only five tables had gluten free bread and a protocol for cross contamination. In all cases, in Ireland and to a lesser degree in Scotland, the care for separation of allergen ingredients was listed on the menu. All wait staff I spoke to was well versed in gluten free. Small ethnic restaurants such as Thai, Chinese, Arab, etc. are a mixed bag in terms of gf Most are good, but, a few may not be as well informed. The best place for breakfast was the hotels in both countries. They all provided gf bread with some also having gf croissants and buns. Hotel breakfast is a big deal in both Ireland and Scotland with a variety of eggs, meats, cheeses, fruits, potatoes, juices, coffees, waffles, bakery etc. Most restaurants in Ireland have gf bread, pasta, and buns (some even have gf pizza) for lunch and dinner. Local and regional specialties (such as irish stew) are available as corn flour is used for thickening. Salmon and fish are fresh caught from the lakes and the ocean and sauces can be made gluten free. Bacon and sausage (bangers) are very different in taste and presentation and mostly gf. Most establishments have gf desserts; brownies, carrot cake, etc. For once, I could go into a random restaurant without consulting the internet for suggestions……pure heaven!!! I must mention that Ireland pasture raises their cows and hormones are against the law. The dairy in Ireland (and also Scotland) is wonderful. Irish cheese, butter, yogurt, and milk just taste better and are of a better quality. Much of this is made in County Kerry and near Dublin. KerryGold butter and Dubliner cheese are readily available in our area. Scotland runs a close second to Ireland. I had haggis and black pudding made especially for me, (they were like hush puppies – delicious!). Since haggis is normally made with barley, mine was made with rice. The grocery stores are full of gluten free products. Tessco and Aldi’s dominate the landscape. I stopped in to a bakery in Scotland and Ireland and both had gluten free breads and sweets. Too numerous to mention individual places to eat at, but, one in particular in Dublin I loved. That was Bobo’s Gourmet Irish burgers. Burger creations made with all kinds of crazy ingredients, chips (French fries) and buns gluten free, gf beer, and the ground beef was delicious. Speaking of gf beer, most of the larger restaurants and pubs carry a variety of it as well as the best hard cider on tap I ever had (Orchard Thieves).
For scenery, you can’t beat Ireland and Scotland. In a word it’s, “breathtaking”. Scotland is more mountainous and rockier, especially the Scottish Highlands. Ireland is greener and has more pastureland for sheep, cows, and horses. Both countries are very diversified in land formations but not much in weather. In July, both Ireland and Scotland were in the 60’s during the day and 50’s at night. It will rain, have bright sun, become chilly and hot all in the same day. Daylight is about 3 hours longer than in the Cleveland area. My tour guide in Scotland said that the weather report for every day is the same, “there are all four seasons in one day”.
The people are friendly and gregarious in both Scotland and Ireland. They want to know where you are from and what you have seen. I stopped a man coming out of a pub in Ireland to ask directions. One half hour later, I couldn’t understand his directions, but, I knew all about the pubs in the area and a selection of customers.
There is something to see and do for everyone. Most museums in Ireland and some in Scotland are free. Castles in various states of disrepair and renovation abound. Some you can tour, stay at, eat at, and just investigate the ruins are everywhere in both countries. Of note is Edinburgh castle in Scotland, where the crown jewels are on display and the Blarney Castle in Ireland where you can kiss the Blarney Stone. Whiskey distilleries are numerous and available for touring. Golf is a prized national pastime in both countries with world famous courses such as St. Andrew’s in Scotland. A plethora of lochs, (lakes in Scotland) and loughs, (lakes in Ireland) are there for boat cruising, fishing, and picture taking. Of note is the enormous Loch Ness in Scotland which bisects the country and where you can get a glimpse of Nessie the monster. Ferries across large and small bodies of water are available for pedestrians, cars, trucks, and busses.
Scotland is a part of the United Kingdom and the currency is in Pounds Sterling (since Brexit). Edinburgh is the capital. Also part of the UK is 6 counties in Northern Ireland with currency in Pounds. Belfast is the capital. The rest of the 26 counties of Ireland are in The Republic of Ireland (formerly the Irish Free State) which won its freedom from Britain in the 1920’s. It is part of the European Union and its currency is Euros. Since Brexit (Britain breaking away from the European Union) the traveling from Northern Ireland to the Irish Republic is smooth and commonplace. Scotland and Ireland have left lane roads rather than right lane as in the U. S. and most other countries. Steering wheels are on the right side of vehicles as opposed to the left side in the U. S. Traffic laws are very strict. The drivers are courteous and kindly, and orderly. Taxis, busses, and independent tour vehicles abound in the larger cities such as Edinburgh, Glasgow, Dublin, and Belfast. It is best to prebook taxis and tours through the hotels and independent tour services.
So, pull out that passport and head to Scotland and Ireland for a lifetime of memories and great gluten free eating. Slainte’